Well, it’s taken some time, but I’ve finally made it back to Spikul. The drive wasn’t so bad, the weather cooperated this time. This was Ernita’s fourth time to the cliff and her first time actually climbing, all prior trips we were rained out.

Jesse coming up, he learned to climb at Class 5 a couple weeks prior and is now helping up establish a new multi-pitch route.

When I decided to start Class 5 Indo, I made it very clear to climbers that we were a rock climbing gym for business first, but that once the gym could, it would focus on developing accessible and safe climbing routes in Indonesia. This would include new routes, and the re-bolting of existing routes with bad hardware.

Trip new route started a week before I headed up when Ringgo, Rossid, and Tofik headed to Spikul to carve out a climber’s trail at the base of the wall. This was no easy task the the trio spent the better part of three days with machetes clearing a meter path at the base of the 450 meter high Indosite cliff. In the process, they made accessible several new potential lines. Most will be very difficult, but worth the effort.  While they worked hard to clear the base, we choose a line in a different location this time around.

After two days, we manage to bolt the first two pitches of our new route. Only guessing, but the line looks like it will be 10 to 12 pitch in total. Because we had time and were able to recharge our batteries at the local farm house, we bolted two other one pitch routes as alternate starts.

Once we finish this route, we plan on removing and replacing all bolts on Tower 2. The route was bolted in the early 1980s with self tapping, non-stainless bolts. Most are only in halfway.

Our climbing group consisted of Myself, my wife Ernita, Rossid, Aaron, Jessey, and Eric

Eric and Jessey learned to climb at Class 5 two weeks prior. They and Aaron are on tour in Indonesia doing Motorcycle Freestyle rallies. Aaron’s Website

The lowest buttress where our Route starts.
A bit of relaxing after the long approach. Long meaning 15 minutes.
Enjoying the view.
My beautiful wife Ernita at the first belay. Very patient with the belay. Bolting on lead isn’t a fast process.
Mostly friction climbing, takes time to get comfortable.
The second ascent of our first pitch.
Aaron coming up to the belay.
You can do it.
Me Heading out the second pitch. Yes, that a bosh drill hanging from my side.
Second pitch was much quicker, roughly 5.8+, but very dirty.
Making things look hard.
A “GOOD” bolt on Tower 2
Bringing Ernita Up to Pitch 2 Belay
Out route will continue left around the green trees above. From there, it will follow a perfect corner, hopefully on gear not bolts, to the terrace. Above the terrace is very overhanging, I’m guessing the summit pitch will be 5.12+ overhanging climbing.
Coming Down

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